Stella Gray, Spa Elder Fern Tree, the Spa at Half Moon
Monday, September 21, 2009
I was recently asked by an All Woman reader if I would talk more on the subject of skin care and thought I would take the opportunity to go over some skin care basics before giving more information. First, it is good to remember that our skin is a living organ of our body and can be affected by our diet, lifestyle, hormonal changes, our general health and well-being, and by the climate we live in.
When caring for our skin, the most important thing for us is to ascertain what type of skin we have. If you are unsure, consult a good skin care practitioner who will help to guide you as to the products that are best suited to your skin type.
There are five skin types:
Normal Skin - People who have normal skin are fortunate as their skin is well balanced and rarely has breakouts.
Oily Skin - This skin type often needs a lot of care as it is prone to blackheads, pimples and acne. Oily skin will appear shiny due to an over-production of sebum. Teenagers are often prone to oily skin and can suffer from acne breakouts due to hormonal imbalances.
Dry Skin - As we age we are more likely to have dry skin as the hormone balance changes and our skin produces less sebum. Dry skin is fine in texture, has few open pores although it can be flaky and rough in places. Due to the lack of sebum it tends to show lines and wrinkles easily.
Combination Skin - If you have this skin type you will have what is known as an oily "T-zone" in the centre of your face including the forehead, nose and chin. The rest of your face can be either dry or normal. You will need to care for both zones.
Sensitive Skin - Often when we think we have sensitive skin it can be skin that has been sensitised and is having a reaction to factors such as stress, diet or use of products that do not suit our skin. Using gentle hypoallergenic products can often return your skin to its normal type. Things to avoid using are soaps, highly scented products and hydroxy acids. Certain types of medications will also bring on skin sensitivity. So if you have recently developed sensitive skin, look at all the things that could be affecting your skin.
There are three basic steps in our daily skin care regime.
A. Cleansing
Proper cleansing will remove make-up, sweat, impurities and excess sebum. First, find a skin care product for your skin type, but stay away from soap as this will leave your skin feeling tight and dry. Our skin is slightly acidic and soap is alkaline. This can happen to all skin types even when you appear to have oily skin as soap dehydrates and causes moisture loss.
B. Toner
After cleansing it's important to restore the pH balance to your skin with toner. Astringents can be toners but contain alcohol. Care should be taken when using an astringent as alcohol will irritate some skins and have a drying effect. Additionally, with prolonged use, astringents may strip the skin's natural immune barrier and promote the formation of brown spots. Also, as a note, perfumes are alcohol-based, so for those of us who spray colognes on our necks don't be surprised if you develop dark marks where you spray.
C. Moisturiser
This product helps our skin retain water. There are a number of formulations to help nourish and protect our skin, so choose the type that best suits. You may also want to buy a moisturiser that has SPF to protect your skin from the sun's harmful rays.
Ideally we should do our skin care routine twice daily. In the morning this will prepare your skin for the day and at night you may need to cleanse your skin more thoroughly in order to remove all traces of make-up. Never go to bed with make-up on as our skin cells repair best at night.
Exfoliation. When we are young our skin replaces itself every 14 days. At about age 40 the cycle is increased to 30 days. When dead skin cells sit on the surface of our skin the pores get clogged and we fail to absorb any nutrients we may put on our skin, which will result in a dull complexion. By exfoliating we remove these dead cells leaving our skin brighter and clearer. Exfoliation also stimulates circulation and encourages cell renewal and rejuvenation.
There are two basic types of exfoliation. The first is where we use an exfoliant product and gently massage it on to freshly cleansed skin and rinse it off.
The second exfoliant is one that contains AHA, BHA, retinoic acid or enzymes. These are substances that remove the dead surface cells without rubbing. When using these products do not combine them with strong scrubs to avoid irritating the skin and causing skin sensitivity.
In Part II I will talk about some of the ingredients you will find in your facial products and their benefits.
Stella Gray is the Spa Elder at Fern Tree, the Spa at Half Moon, with over 35 years in the spa industry.
She can be reached at ferntree@halfmoon.com.
Gentle Facial Exfoliant
What you'll need
2 tsp oatmeal
1 tsp milk powder
1 tsp cornmeal
Method
Mix all ingredients together and add enough water to make a paste.
Apply to freshly cleansed skin. Massage gently.
Rinse, tone and moisturise.
Dairy products contain lactic acids, which add to the exfoliation process. Yogurt can be used instead of milk powder.